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A Philadelphian’s Guide to a Weekend in Atlantic City

Most people picture Atlantic City as one thing: rows of slot machines and the old Boardwalk. It is both of those, but it is also a free beach, a craft distillery, the largest pipe organ on earth, and a six-story wooden elephant a few minutes down the coast. It sits about an hour from Philadelphia, whether you drive yourself or book a private car from the city, making it an easy weekend. Here is how to spend one without falling into the tourist ruts.

Boardwalk or Marina: Pick Your Base

The first thing to understand is that Atlantic City is really two places, and the one you stay in sets the tone.

The oceanfront side is the high-energy half, walkable and right on the sand, with Hard Rock, Ocean, Tropicana, Caesars, and Resorts lined up along the Boardwalk. The Marina District, just over on the bay, is calmer and more self-contained, home to Borgata, Harrah’s, and the Golden Nugget. If you want the beach and the buzz, stay oceanside. If you want a slower weekend built around the rooms and restaurants, head to the Marina. First-timers usually want to be on the sand.

The Classic Sights

The Boardwalk runs several miles along the oceanfront, and a slow morning walk covers it before the afternoon crowds roll in. Steel Pier has stretched out over the ocean since 1898 and now carries The Wheel, a 227-foot observation wheel with a clear view up the coast. The beach beneath it is free, which is increasingly rare on the Jersey Shore.

Two things most visitors miss. Nearly every cross street shares its name with a Monopoly square, because the board was based on Atlantic City’s own streets. And Boardwalk Hall holds the largest pipe organ ever built, a 33,112-pipe instrument from the 1930s that is worth seeing even when nothing is playing.

The Orange Loop

For the side of Atlantic City that has nothing to do with slot machines, walk three blocks off the Boardwalk to the Orange Loop, a cluster of beach-block streets named for the orange properties on the Monopoly board. It has become the city’s creative core: craft beer at the Tennessee Avenue Beer Hall, live indie shows at Anchor Rock Club, good coffee, small restaurants, and a run of murals from the 48 Blocks street-art project. A short way inland, Little Water Distillery pours small-batch gin, rum, and vodka made on site.

Where to Dine

The food here predates the casinos and outlasts the buffets. White House Sub Shop has made the same Italian subs since 1946 and has fed a long line of celebrities over the decades. Dock’s Oyster House has run since 1897 and is the proper sit-down seafood dinner. Inside the resorts, the celebrity-chef rooms cover the nights you feel like dressing up.

Beyond the Boardwalk

With a half day to spare, the quieter corners pay off. The Inlet, at the northern tip of the island, has the calmest stretch of beach and the Absecon Lighthouse, the tallest in New Jersey at 171 feet, which you can climb. Ducktown is the old Italian neighborhood, good for a bakery stop and a no-frills red-sauce dinner. And just south in Margate stands Lucy the Elephant, a six-story elephant built in 1882 and the oldest roadside attraction in the country.

What To Plan Ahead

A few unglamorous details separate a smooth weekend from a scattered one.

  • The dress code, day and night. By day, the beachfront is as casual as it gets, and comfortable shoes matter because it stretches for miles, and you will cover more of it than you expect. At night the city flips. The fine-dining rooms and upscale lounges expect you to step it up, so at Dock’s Oyster House or the casino steakhouses, leave the beachwear behind and dress the part.
  • The transport transition. The two sides of the city are farther apart than the map suggests. The Boardwalk and the Marina District sit about a mile and a half apart by road, which is a long way to cover at midnight after a dinner and a show. It is worth thinking through how you will move between them before the night starts, whether that means basing yourself in one district or arranging a private car and driver to handle the hops.

Spend a single weekend here and the Atlantic City you pictured from the highway gives way to the real one. The casinos were never the whole story.

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